Runway Report: Antonio Berardi | Milan Spring 2015 RTW

The Antonio Berardi Spring 2015 collection was like a great dream taking you through an abundance of emotions and leaving you wishing you didn’t wake up so soon!

Berardi told a story through distinct vignettes; each illustrated differently through use of shape, color, pattern, and line. First came the dramatic and mysterious blue, black, and sage green, with a slight use of blush.  From the darker place, it transitioned into a brighter story, complementary of the color orange. This vignette was fiery and filled with oranges, reds, and all the hues in between; it shocked the senses from it’s  complete complementary opposite of dark and mysterious blue. Differences aside, the blue and orange vignettes’ patterns were very painterly, like a work of Modern Art. The blush always provided a little rest in between the drama; acting as a palette cleanser, so to speak, before the burst of color.

I think the most successful pieces are the ones that were full of pattern and dramatic lines.  Berardi compliments the body by using wide silk lines and powerful color blocking techniques to enhance the sleeves, necklines, and silhouettes.

The collection had an Asian-chinoiserie-quality to it.  Between the Mandarin collars, the dramatic silk blazers with wide legged pants, the use of bright Red, and the modern day cheongsam, often referred to as a  ‘Suzie Wong dress,’ an Asian influence was relevant.

The Berardi dream slowly cycled again, going darker to lighter and finally ended with this very buoyant sheer white silk embroidered pieces.

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