Turn up the volume, turn up the drama, and go to different dimensions!
The seeds of inspiration for Greta Constantine’s latest collection were planted from another collection. Kirk Pickersgill’s Aunt’s Orchid Collection was the muse for Pickersgill and Stephen Wong’s Spring RTW 2020 Collection.
This floral inspiration can be seen in many of the silhouettes. From the more sculptural and literal “bloom” details to the use of multilayered double edged ruffles to create 3-D drama.
The more literal interpretations of botany are seen in some of the dresses. A few dresses’ asymmetric and voluminous arm poufs echo the dimension of an orchid’s petals. Another detail referencing to the motif is the dress’ back piece. The short, sleek, magenta dress’ oversized arm pouf is balanced out by the bustle-like sculpturally folded satin undulating back piece, which cascades into a train. These differing proportions and dimensions give us drama. The pearl white short dress’ erectly curved neckline lead the eye down to the spiky leaf-like back piece.
The collection is pulled together with the use of double-edged ruffles throughout. The creativity and exploration of how to use a single technique with a myriad of different uses and incarnations is where this collection shined.
This layering technique of double-edged ruffles gives volume, interest, dimension and a fluid detail to all that it adorned. Wherever the ruffles are used they created volume. Multi layers of ruffles are used as a waist piece, sleeve, decorative design, skirt, top, and trim. The ruffles take on different roles depending on the proximity to one another and fabric used. These ruffles evoke different moods for each of the garments.
Although the collection mainly features dresses, there are separates as well. The tops, pants, and shorts are a punch of sportswear. A portion of the collection goes into gold lamé-land. These are sleek gold and black disco era pieces, which are more reminiscent of the brand’s previous collections. There is a tulle evening gown grouping, making use of large layers for dimension. It would have been interesting to see the use of the double edge ruffle in tulle explored here or even in the design details. In an earlier look tulle has been used successfully on a short dress. The design elements of the ruffs, bodice, and breeches style skirt all came together to deliver a stunning silhouette reminiscent of the Elizabethan Fashion.
The ruffles, in all of their in-carnations, truly blossomed in this collection.
Images Courtesy of Vogue.com
